Tales from Fair Head

So after a long day of buses, trains, walking, cycling and hitch hiking, I found myself on top of what I thought was the Fair Head crag. I seen the crag from when I got off the bus at Ballycastle and just started to walk towards it along the beach. It looked steep, scary and amazing...

Fair Head as seen from Ballycastle

Along the way, a local man with a thick northern accent gave me a lift to where he thought it was (none of the locals know people climb the massive cliff they look at every day!) and left me in the middle of no where. There was a great mystery about the place, I looked around and no one was to be found. I had a strange feeling that I was in the wrong place all together. As I approach the cliff, I see a climber on some of the best rock I've ever seen. “Holy shitballs, this must be it!”. Instantly PSYCHED.

My first glimpse at the climbing in Fair Head

After finding friends and grabbing some dinner, we decided there would be enough daylight left to get a route in. We absailed down the Prow, the main single pitch area of the crag, and I jumped on Midnight Cruiser, my first route at the head. After placing all my gear in the first 20 meters with 20 meters left to go, I found myself on the edge, pumped and terrified. This place is AWESOME. After a few trips to Fair Head, and 32 routes completed, there is yet to be a climb I haven't enjoyed. Every route offers quality rock, great situations and excellent climbing along with a spectacular view of the sea and Rathlin Island.

Fireball, with Midnight Cruiser on the right

That night I set up camp with my friends on Sean McBride's campsite. He has very kindly offered land up to the climbers to make use of the spectacular climbing at Fair Head. An absolute gent, just call in when you arrive and let him know you will be staying there, he's very accommodating. There is a honestly box located in the carpark where contributions are made (dont be stingy!). The campsite consists of a main field with other minor areas to camp. There are ruins on site which offers some shelter from the elements, making it a great communal point and spot to hang out and sing songs by a fire.

The same night was the last day of the Mountaineering Ireland meet and many climbers made there way home. However there was still many climbers around and we stayed up late and sang many classics such as My Lovely Horse and Wagonwheel. The ruins give good acoustics for the many instruments that were played that night such as guitars, ukuleles, djembe, tin whistles, cardboard boxes and bottles. There's not really anything else to do at night other than drink beer and sing songs!

I stayed on for the week climbing with old friend Liam Brophy. The weather was unbelievable, not a drop of rain the whole week! What's most suprising is that there was only 2 other people on the crag for the whole week, even though its a world class climbing venue. Nick Bullock was one of those people, he had given a talk for the MI meet on the Saturday night. It was great to talk to him in person as he's a world class climber and mountaineer. Nick ticked many hard lines at Fair Head that week such as Primal Scream and The Wall of Prey, routes I'm well psyched to do this summer.

Nick Bullock at the top of Aoife

The Fair Head crag stretches along the northern coastline for 4km at a height of 100 meters. This makes it the largest expanse of rock in both Ireland and the UK. Its MASSIVE! It has a very gothic atmosphere and every route looks very intimidating from the bottom. The main sections of the crag are the Prow, Bally Castle Desent Gulley, Rathlin Wall and Grey Man's Path areas. There are still quality routes to be found in other sections. Areas such as the Prow make for great climbing during the evenings, as the routes are short and it gets the setting sun coming in from the west. However, most of the climbing around Fair Head is in the shade. Routes are usually dry due to the wind of the Irish Sea. Its easiest to set up an absail to gain access to routes as the path at the bottom of the crag can be very tedious!

The view looking back to Ballycastle

The climbing at the head is long and sustained but the best part is that gear is on demand where ever and when ever you need it (but not is all cases!!!). So it is essential to bring a large rack, with plenty of nuts, cams, quickdraws etc. Climbers would easily place over 20 pieces in one pitch! There have been many moments that I said to myself “ahh I wont need that cam on this route” and then find myself in a situation where its the only thing that will fit in around me. So bring everything! And make sure to bring a big pair of balls for the harder routes as well :)

Racking up with dirtbag climber Liam Brophy

Despite every route I did in Fair Head being awesome, there were certain climbs that I remember more than others (some for the wrong reasons!). One of the first routes I did in Fair Head was Burn Up, an amazing HVS found at the Grey Man's Path area. Highly recommended! Lots of gear and long sustained HVS climbing. Probably the best of that grade at Fair Head. A quality route at a very reasonable grade with really cool laybacking moves from start to finish.

Liamo giving me the chalky finger on Burn Up

After Burn Up, Liam jumped on (and off!) Sandpiper, a really cool E2 in the same area. The moves are a bit bonkers but the gear is good so you have to just go for it! Highly recommended, plus the route looks amazing with this weird sandy color rock. After the crux is finished you top out by squeezing yourself up an offwidth (with no gear!). Super fun!

Liam on Sandpiper, not knowing about the funky moves ahead

me chillin in the offwidth at the top of Sandpiper

After sandpiper it was my lead and I picked out Hurricane, a 3 star E2 (couldn't say no!). As we walked around the corner from Sandpiper we seen this massive crack splitting the face. I said to Liam “fuckin hell, hate to be doing that route right now!”. As we consulted the guidebook it turned out that was Hurricane, needless to say my jaw dropped! Nearly pissed my pants. Like all routes in Fair Head, you need to just man up and give it a shot. Its all about pushing yourself out of your comfort zone. The route turned out to me epic, despite the 7 meter gear run out I had due to using all the cams at the start! Awesome climbing.

me at the bottom of Hurricane

On a seperate Fair Head trip, Liam and I decided to have a go at Striapach, as its guidebook description sounded great. The description says it “gives a superb 36m pitch of chimneying”. DONT BE FOOLED!!! One of the weirdest climbs ever. A 36 meter long chimney about half a meter wide. Not one for the claustrophobic! Its graded as HVS but be warned, its nails and only has one piece of gear, a log of wood which was dropped from the top and luckily wedged itself in the chimney about half way. Liam lead this pitch and I've never heard noises like that coming from any human being before. “AHHHHH, HUUUUUUUGHHH, HUHUMMMMMMMM, GUUUUUUUUURRRRRRR!!!”. It was hilarious. 

I started seconding the chimney pitch (in a t shirt and shorts!) and soon learned that unless I wanted to loose all the skin on my face, legs and arms, I'd have to be lowered back down. So basically I pussied out, but still no regrets! When Liam came back down he was a broken man. But fair juice to him for doing it! I challenge any member from UCDMC to do this climb and I promise to buy them a pint (maybe even several pints...) if you succeed.

Me enjoying the fresh air on the first pitch, before the deep dark depths above on Striapach

So after the episode we had on Striapach, I redeemed myself by climbing a line around the corner called Jolly Rodger. This turned out to be my favourite route at the head so far. On the first pitch there's a long windy finger crack. It was unbelievable. After the first pitch I thought I had enough rope to complete the climb in one, so continued on. Dropped my nuts on the first few meters of the 2nd pitch which didnt help things! Got to the top super buzzed with about 2 meters of rope left, just enough for a belay! Amazing climbing. Definitely one of the best at the head. 58 meters of awesomeness.

Negotiating the crux of Jolly Roger

My most successful day at Fair Head was spent with Tommy McGrath. Somehow we managed to get 7 routes done in one day. We managed to tick Conchubair, Blind Pew, Mizen Star, The Embankment, Fath Mo Bhuartha, The Black Thief and The Fence. 11 pitches in total! 4 E2s, 1 E1 and 2 VSs. What an epic day! Needless to say we were bolloxed and after a few victory salami sandwiches, we had a dip in the lake to cool off! All onsight, super chuffed!

We both found Mizen Star to be particularly epic, which consists of 2 pitches. The first is a long sustained crack on good (but pumpy) jams with lots of gear. Then you reach a lovely ledge which the route setters have kindly put on the climb for you to relax on. The second pitch couldn't be more different as you leave the saftey of the ledge and it follow a line of flakes up the face, giving bold crimpy climbing with really shit gear! What an awesome climb, everyone should go do it!

Tommy on Fath Mo Bhuartha

That night we were in for even more adventure. We were up late singing songs with English lads we meet at the campsite. They were on a climbing tour of the UK and Ireland and heard about the quality of the routes at Fair Head. One them them made an awesome video of a rope swing they set up in Fair Head that day. Check it out here! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CDG4Fl9Kmq4. Dan also takes some of the best climbing photos I've ever seen, which can be found on his website http://danarklephotography.yolasite.com/galleries.php

So at around 2am, we were all still up singing away having a few beers. Out of nowhere, 6 men came into the ruins where we had our fire, dressed in nothing but underpants, wellies and cowboy hats. WTF! I can't emphasis how remote the location of the campsite is so this is the last thing you would expect to see at that time! We weren't sure what to think, however they brought gifts of Bulmers and Peach Shnapps so all was well and we all sang songs til the early hours of the morning.

A busy night in the ruins

Ah yeah, roaming around Fair Head late at night in your underwear...

So to sum up, I strongly encourage any climber to make their way up to Fair Head at some point. Its the best place I have ever climbed and still have hundreds of quality routes left to try. I cant emphasis enough the quality of the lines and how lucky we are to have such a place in our country. Hopefully there will be even more people at the Mountaineering Ireland Fair Head meet this year in May along with lots more climbers from UCD!

-Conor McGovern

Fair Head is AWESOME