After
suffering from 2 bad ankle injuries, 2 surgeries and 2 helicopter
rides, my psyche in summer 2014 was at an all time low. Its hard
coming back from bad experiences and trying to climb as well as
before. I had lost the hunger for getting out and pushing myself
outside the comfort zone. Blah blah blah etc. However in the last few months I've become more psyched than ever before! Here's some EXCLUSIVE pics of the helicopter rescues in France...
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| Paul Collins getting some airtime off the Frendo Spur, Chamonix |
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| "Back to Ireland please" |
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| Evening light on Mr Frendo. The circled rock will never be forgotten! |
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| Déjà vu chopper number 2! Weeeeeeeee! |
Last September, after pretty much doing no climbing all summer, I got my first taste at climbing in Ailladie Co. Clare. We got there at around 7pm and made the long walk to the crag (its about a minute walk from the road!). The first route I seen was Siren, E3 5c and I started to get psyched again. It looked so good that I had to give it a shot. Bold easy climbing up a wall on crimps in an excellent situation. Falling not allowed. As I topped out I got a round of applause from a paddy wagon of asian tourists, followed by handshakes and selfies and even an autograph! It was hilarious. It was my birthday which made it even better! We managed 2 more routes that evening. The Ramp, which traverses a fault line up the spectacular Mirror Wall, giving excellent climbing on great rock. Pis Fluich was next, which was a corner climb approached by dodging waves and hopping boulders!
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| Leman seconding Siren. I like the waves in the backround :) |
The following day gave more sunshine and cool climbing on the featured limestone of the Burren. Highlights were Skywalker, Route 32 and Gallows Pole (which I thought was nails for E2!). Unfortunately we only got to stay for 2 half days before we returned back to Dublin. The place is like a holiday resort for climbers - amazing routes, rock,
scenery and the whole place sparkles in the sunshine! I had forgotten
how amazing trad climbing really is but I had definitely gained my
psyche back! Cant wait to climb there again.
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| Looking across the 2nd pitch of the ramp. Great climbing! |
The day after I travelled up to the Mournes with Paddy Nolan, Colm Shannon and Liam Brophy. I had never climbed there before so it was great to finally have the time and see what all the fuss is about! The rock is a bit mad, consisting of overlapping pillows of granite, flared cracks, loads of friction and lots of good/slopey holds! Again this was only a 1 night trip but we still managed 2 good days of climbing. The first day was spent on the corners of lower cove, about an hour walk (very scenic!) from the carpark. Highlights from day one include Meatgrinder, French Route and Overdue (which is more like HVS and not E2!). It was also fun to watch Colm trying to climb a slimey and very overgrown E2 on the fourth corner. Gardening mid-lead always makes good viewing.
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| Climbing up some stupid rock somewhere sometime |
The next day we ran into some car trouble. Liam wanted to dry his socks using the car engine and unfortunately we were left with a car that wouldnt start #lolz. After about an hour of pushing it around we finally got it going and headed for the hills. We only did one route that day which was FM, a huge slab of granite on the side of Slieve Lamagan. Easy climbing on sound rock from bottom to top. A great day out with amazing views of the Mournes at the top of Slieve Lamagan.
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| Dunno what he's looking at, its a pretty shit view |
It was great to knock out these routes in Ailladie and the Mournes, despite not being trad-active for a while. It was a big confidence booster and a reminder of how much trad climbing is in the head.
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| Its a shame ducks and swans cant do trad. They'd be great at quack climbing |
Due to work and final year in college, I've only managed to climb in Dalkey Quarry over the last few months. This has been great as its such a cool spot with lots of awesome routes! It was great to repeat some of the classics there and see other members from UCDMC giving it socks. The club is stronger than ever and seems super psyched. The number of female trad climbers is higher than ever and is something most clubs in the country are lacking. Seems like everyone is going to have a really good summer.
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| 11 loopers from UCDMC straddling Arrowhead in Dalkey. |
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| Robert the robin, having lunch with us at Dalkey |
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| Keith pulling some disco shapes on Mahjongggggg |
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| Kieran in cruise mode on Superette |
Here's a video I made of some UCDMC members on Honeypot Crack in Dalkey. Its a great climb but is hardly ever dry!
Other highlights this year are:
Climbing Comes The Dervish in Vivian Quarry with Neil and Chloe, having not slept in 30ish hours
Carrot Ridge, Connemara - a long multibitch on good rock (yes I said multibitch)
All the days climbing in Dalkey
All the danger cans!
Intervarsities
UCDMC Ball, that was nuts
Things I'm looking forward to...
Gap of Dunloe Meet - 15th-17th May
UCDMC Mournes Trip - 17th-20th May
Fair Head Meet - 6th-8th June
Getting back into slacklining
Climbing as much as possible
-Conor McGovern
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